Beautiful ladies bike ( like new condition ! )

Beautiful ladies bike , like new condition !
Spotless and clean . 17 inches ladies frame .
With good lock , set of lights and with mudguards.
EXTRAS WORTH 75e!
bike was bought for 200.
Real bargin !
275e worth bike + accesories   for  130 only !
Serviced and ready to go !
Price 130e - SOLD!

CONTACT BIKE CLINIQUE / BIKE DOCTOR

To contact us just send us an email. bikeclinique@gmail.com

You are welcome to be our friend on facebook.
Just click the link below:)
BIKECLINIQUE FACEBOOK

Giant Rincon

Giant Rincon 18" aluminium lightweight frame
Shimano alivio rr mech
Ez fire shimano shifters
All shimano parts!
Fully serviced ready to go!
Price 220e

Classic Fausto Coppi Racer

Beautiful very comfy aerodynamic fausto coppi frame.
Carbbon fibre front aerodynamic fork
Sti shimano shifters + 105 rr mech
Double wall aerodynamic wheels.
Specialized ergo handlebar.
Large size .
Very fast lightweight bike.
( new drivetrain , new tubes + tyres , new gear and brake cables etc...)
Race ready. Just after decent full service.
Price: 400e - SOLD!

Bike DOCTOR

Bike Doctor provides the best quality service by professional mechanic when you need it!
When you're too busy to make it to a bike shop and your bike needs a check up, Bike Doctor will come to you, either at home or work!!
The Bike Doctor offers the most complete bicycle service available - at your door!
Your bike needs a full service if you cycle a lot, or if you haven't had your bike professionally serviced for more than a year. 
The Bicycle Doctor offers a full-service mobile repair shop.
Anything from minor repairs to complete overhauls.

Specialized rockhopper classic mtb

Specialized rockhopper classic mtb.
Superlightweight cr-mo double butted frame.
19" size.
Fully serviced ( new cables drivetrain etc )
Price : 200e - SOLD!

Gents aluminium mtb

Gents blue mtb.
Large ( 22" ) aluminium frame.
New drivetrain.
Cheap bike after full service.
Price : 100e - SOLD !

Classic ladies Raleigh bicycle

Classic ladies Raleigh racer.
Low step frame , not complicated gear system.
New tyres + tubes , all cables , drivetrain and handlebar tape.
Bike serviced.
Price 200e

Seat Height Adjustment

Seat Height Adjustment
Use a low seat adjustment for more control during fast downhill riding. Use a high seat adjustment (with a slight bend in the knee) for efficient, long distance pedaling.

Seat Post

Grease your Seat Post

Apply a thin layer of Finish Line Premium Grease to your seat post, where it slides and mounts into the frame. This will keep the seat post from galvanically cold-welding itself within the frame.

Quick - Relase

Quick-Release
Position your front and rear wheel quick-release levers opposite the drivetrain side of the bike. The rear lever should have a tightly closed handle that runs parallel to the chainstay tube. The front lever should be pointed up, tucked next to the fork. These positions will prevent a glancing blow, from a trailside obstacle, from accidentally opening the levers. If you’re new to quick-release axles, make sure your bicycle dealer shows you how to properly use and tension the levers.

Brake & Shift Levers

Lubing Your Brake & Shift Levers
All brake and shifter levers work by using springs and ratchets that arc on pivots. You will need to lube your levers every 6 months.
Cleaning: Your levers will require no more than a quick cleaning. A squirt of bicycle degreaser, a quick scrubbing with a brush, and/or wipe with a rag, should do it. If mud and sand have worked its way into the heart of your brake and shifter levers, it is recommended that you have a trained mechanic tackle the job. Disassembly and reassembly of these components can be quite complicated.

Lubing: Run your levers through their full range of motion while squirting a little lube into the spring and ratchet mechanism. Place a drop of lube onto the pivot and work it into the joint.

Note Like your derailleurs, it may be easier to access the lube points on your levers by turning your bike upside down.

Hubs

Caring for Front and Rear Hubs
Some hubs have "open" bearing assemblies, with only a "dust shield" between them and the elements. You’ll need to routinely inspect, clean and re-grease these type of hubs. In general, inspect, clean and re-grease hubs every 4 months. Carefully disassemble the hub and clean with Citrus BioSolvent or EcoTech-2. Inspect all components and particularly look for pits, cracks, or flat spots in the ball bearings and race surfaces. Generously apply Finish Line Premium Grease to the bearing and race surface, then reassemble. Adjust so bearings run smooth and free, but allow no side-to-side or up-and-down play.

Note Many hubs now feature "sealed bearing assemblies". Just keep their outer seals clean with an occasional rag wipe. Don’t spray water or degreaser into your bearings. Properly cared for, sealed bearing hubs will last a long time.

Stem

Creaking Stem Sometimes, the handlebar stem will "creak". This is usually caused by one of two things: either dirt that has worked it’s way down between the stem and the fork’s steerer tube or the stem has come slightly loose. To fix this, loosen the stem, remove it from the steerer tube, and clean it using Citrus BioSolvent or EcoTech 2. Reassemble and tighten to correct torque specification.

Note Some high-end stem mounting designs may require special tools or unique reassembly torques. Check with your local shop if you have any questions.

Lubricatung Your Derailleurs

Lubing Your Derailleurs
Your derailleurs are just as important as your chain, in helping to deliver those crisp, exact shifts that make cycling a true joy. The derailleurs shift your chain by using a system of springs and pivots. It is important to keep these springs and pivots well lubricated. They will require a shot of lube every 5 - 7 rides.


Note Gears (sprockets) do not require any special lube application. The gears receive sufficient lubrication from the chain, as it runs through them. Excessive lubricant on the gears will attract dirt and eventually degrade the performance of your drivetrain components.

Lubricating Your Cables

Lubricating Your Cables Smooth operating cables are the life lines that keep your braking and shifting system working optimally. There are a variety of ways to lubricate your cables, from removing them, to just shooting a little lube into the ends of the cable housings. Depending on how much wet weather riding you do, your cables will require different amounts of attention. You should inspect and lube, if necessary, every 4 - 6 rides. For quick maintenance, squirt or drip a "dry" style lube into the open ends of the cable housings.

Note When it is time for a thorough cleaning and re-lubing of your cables, a trained mechanic should tackle the job. Unless you are experienced in removing your own cables, you can easily spend a few hours getting everything readjusted properly.

Braking Performance

Braking Performance Glazed, hardened, dirty, or misaligned brake pads account for nearly all "loss of braking power" problems. Keep the surface of your brake pads clean and fresh by using sandpaper or steel wool to scuff away any debris, and hardened glaze. Check the alignment. The pad should be "toed in" about 1/8" to first make contact with the rim at its front half. Additionally, the pad should contact the center of the rim. The pad should never rub the tire, or hang off the rim. In general, clean and inspect your brake pads every month. Brake pads are inexpensive and relatively easy to replace. You'll be amazed at the difference new brake pads make. Regularly clean your rims with EcoTech 2 Degreaser. Your pads will work better and last longer.

Tech Tips

Bike Fit and Comfort
Position your seat height, so that when you sit on the bike and have your foot at the lowest point in the pedal stroke, there is still a slight bend in your knee. Full leg extension will cause your hips to rock when you pedal. Too much bend in your knee will keep full pedal power from getting to the pedals. And, incorrect positioning will lead to discomfort and leg cramps over long rides. Position the seat forward or back, so your knee is directly over the pedal when you have your foot and pedal in the "3 o’clock" position. Handlebars should be approximately shoulder width wide and be positioned at about the same level as your seat. Maintain a slight bend in your elbows when riding to absorb shock. Also, a change in stem length may be helpful. Your local bike shop has a selection of different sized stems to get that "perfect" fit. To avoid hand numbness over long rides, keep your wrists straight and change hand positions occasionally. Keep a firm, but relaxed grip and try a set of bar-ends for additional positioning options.
efficient, long distance pedaling.

Finally ON!

Finally, after many years I decided to implement my idea
Convince people of the used bikes are better than new ...
And so for several reasons: first, are cheaper (you can buy much better quality product for a reasonable price), and secondly, if you buy a used bike you care and it is in contradiction of the new bike looks better and better, and unfortunately due to my experience, older bicycles and components for some reason were more reliable.
Besides personally think that most of the successful few (teenage) models of bikes is definitely sufficient parameters in order to enjoy today's users: the end does not matter what they are used.
The only problem with whom one would usually users of
  used bikes is the ability to purchase a bike in poor condition, or even broken.
So I decided to do something to help people like me.
I would like to share to you the opportunity to enjoy the bike second hand in fully-disabled, ready for immediate use ...

That is why I want to run several projects
1) You can buy used here in a nice fully functional bike.
2) You can learn how to take care of him
3) You can learn how to use it
4) I can fix your bike for you if you do not know how.

hmm ... certainly something even hatch with time:)
I am open to suggestions ...